Tuesday, October 6, 2015

Latest From Monty Remon

Monty has sent several sets of pictures this year, I finally got around to updating the site and blog so here they are! Sorry for the delay!

“I don't know if I had a senior moment or you missed a few photos of my power feed flexi support bracket for the Delrin coupling modification of Dec., but just in case I took a few more.remon176remon177

Tailstock- I finally got round to rejigging my old quick change wind it/lever action drilling system for the now vertically configured lever. Just 2" of 20 tpi rod and a little piece of angle bolted under the overhang, so I can wind it in slow rotate the pin 90 degs., to disengage and yank it back fast, if required.remon179remon178remon180


remon181I was about to work on my compound slide, by adopting the Ed Maisey solution, however I was short of 3/4"ally, but I did have some 1/2" left over from my first slim line attempt that proved to be secure but fiddly to clamp.  I decided to swap the configuration over and mount the male part of the annular dovetail on the cross slide and recess the compound slide, two fixed tabs and one adjustable tab would secure  and lock the compound to the cross slide. The original Taig working height is retained so no riser blocks would be req'd. I started making swarf.

Half way through the machining it was looking untidy, so I stopped. But a few hours later I had the inklings of an idea so I started on a new piece. I find it easier to rub out marker pen than sweep up swarf.

remon182remon183Now if I can refrain from making a pigs ear of it. A 3" piece of 2"X1/2" ally bar was milled down to .44 thick and the edges cleaned up. After drilling 1/4" hole for the lead screw and milling a recess for the Taig split nut
I drilled a parallel hole and tapped it 5mm for the 2" clamping bolt. I then turned it over and machined a 1 1/2" diam.,x 0.125" deep recess.

remon184I thought I was being clever using a dovetail cutter to undercut the recess, not recommended, I finished up grinding myself a cutter to do a proper job. 

remon185Things are that tight, there is not much in the way of clearances, more like alignments.
The dovetail machining is a case in point I had to stop short of the hole and raise the cutter to keep the profile workable.

remon200remon186 remon187 remon188Looked impressive, so I cut it in half!

remon197remon193  The disc is finished to 10 thou., less than recess depth, the diam., is turned down until it seats in the recess and the clamped gap is about 1/16". The T nut/cs screws set up is critical, heads machined flush with the disc surface, length about 0.37" if I remember right. The screws should be tightened until the assy., just slips along the T slots on the xslide. Now peen or Loctite the little blighters or you will start swearing when it fails.
The assy., is left in situ.

remon198 At last! 2" of travel, does not wobble. Would recommend full engagement of split halves when adjusting angular/lateral position on top slide.

remon199I was looking into the possibility of mounting my quick retract tool post design on my compound slide. With the workings centred 0.25" over the base things were going to be more than tight. I thought about turning things upside down but the simple solution was to move things from the attic to the basement and invert the spring drilling.

remon202 remon203 So I started making swarf and then stopped, I had an epiphany. My original design has a 1/4" bushing cross drilled for the 3/8" clamping shaft (not a lot of clearance!) so I swapped things around and made the bushing 3/8" and cross drilled 1/4" for the clamping shaft, easier to make too. I just added a 1/4" threaded portion to the shaft end initially for clamping in the tool post when cross drilling to take the 1/8" tool bit, then removed it after. The clamping collar had tweek too, just a saw slot instead of a drilling.  

remon204The lever/cam assy., was just as much fun setting up. Both tool-posts function a treat, but in hindsight you only need to make the version with the workings at the base, and make a 1" spacer! (and a long bolt). Another advantage of this system is that the toolbit can be clamped in any position in the tool post and ground using a spindle mounted stone.

remon205 remon206After I set everything up on the Taig I find I now have to remove a few thou., off the diam., of my zero-able dials, when will it end?

remon207I have finally purchased a very nice 3 jaw scroll chuck, I sabotaged ( modified ) a spare backplate and persuaded it to fit. It dials in OK! As I had a bit of spare time I thought I would give it my 50,60&72 indexing treatment. The years are taking their toll and I had to resort to scanning back to January 2011 to remind myself how I did the job! Well I located the gears and spacers and with an additional spacer to cope with the thickness of the backplate, I set too. The '72' row nearly finished and no cock ups!

remon208The '72' row nearly finished and no cock ups! 

remon210Time for tea after the 72&60.

remon209  The new gear spacer made coped with the new '50' location. And now a new pin/slotted lever assy., with an extended slot is req'd for this (next job).

remon223The next quick mod., was most welcome when carrying out the indexing job, just a stubby knob 180 degs., out from the spinner on the hand wheel, great for feeding in with finger and thumb.

remon214 remon215And finally my Threadbox, at last I have sorted the design of the hand crank/auto feed option, so really I just need to sort the engraving/etching of the front.

remon220I performed an installation exercise, it took. 40 secs., to hang the unit on the headstock.

remon219The Spindle, pulley, belt and hand crank a further 20 secs.

remon212 remon213Couple up to carriage, 15 secs..

remon216Now it just so happens that as I installed the system it was set up for 6 UNF, but if I fine off by 48 divs., then I have gone metric at 0.6.

remon217 Another further input of 1-48 divs., and I had a pitch for 6ba, we use that a lot this side of the pond, and no swapping  gears about.

remon218 I found myself with some more metal and too much time!

Saturday, December 13, 2014

Monty Remon’s Latest Projects

I have been quiet just lately, but this week I decided to address a major moan of mine - the short comings in the design of the drilling tailstock, I have previously mentioned the reduction of ram side loads on the air gap due to linkage geometry, (easily accomplished by increasing the hole spacing on the lever by 1/16"). However the problem of side loads on the 1/8" clamping air gap remained so I rotated the arm assy., through 90degs., to the vertical position, I recycled a piece of 1"x1/2" ally from an old project, milled a slot and drilled a hole to accept the Taig links from the top location. This assy., is bolted onto the back of the tailstock under the overhang, as per the pictures. Now the loads are on the top and bottom of the clamping surfaces. I can still hang my hat on the lever and there is a smaller bench footprint. The only disadvantage I have found so far is that in this configuration the assy., can not be rotated on the bed but if a bracket and linkage assy., is mounted on top using the T slots then this is possible but then the lever action is reversed!  Oh well, you can't have it always - yet! remon146 remon147 remon148 remon149 remon150 I could not let things go, having mentioned the possibilities of a T slot mounting for the drilling lever assy., so I spent a day at the bench to work it out, the pictures show progress.
I elected to fabricate a T bracket with two swinging links and a new lever assy.. remon151 remon152

Here is the arrangement with the overhang at the rearremon153
Here reversed. remon154
Two more pictures to add to the last batch.
I decided to modify the handle by having two sets of holes, to cater for either set up. A  new pin and the holes reamed out, everything is really sweet, it feels much better than the standard side mounted system. remon155 remon156
Modifications to the threading setup. The modifications involve simplifying the construction and beefing it up a little.
The machined rod guides that clamp to the headstock have been replaced by two 1 1/2" washers with a flat filled on each to clear the spindle and a clamping bolt. The rods have been changed to 5/16" diam. remon157

So the main components are still three threaded rods, three bits of sq., ally from the scrap box, the through the spindle attachment for the thread samples and the delrin cartridge to accept the same. remon161

The washer seats the rods on the corner of the bed /headstock junction.
The rods centralise the washer over the  void. remon158

Compact and stiff. remon159

Here it is installed- I Photoshopped the lathe out. remon160

I have just spent a disgusting amount of money on a new mill ( Seig X3???) and thought it advisable to check on the web for tips. Well that got me worried so I set mine up the best I could an noticed  I had 80 division of slack (2mm) in  my fine feed knob!!! Well there was end play and axial play, I shimmed most of the axial play out but the the flexi coupling rattled as it was made in the wrong shack, check the alignment in the pics.,it must have been drilled with a hammer! remon164

To make matters worse the worm gear shaft presessed instead of rotating, only by leaving the bearing block loose could I get free rotation of the input dial! I could see that the only solution would be a new shaft and universal joints. So- I had a cup of tea then attacked a piece of delrin rod with the Taig, the result is shown in the pictures. remon163

A pair of slots at 90 degs., at each end and 45 degs., between them,  as long as the shaft drillings are short of the slots, it works a treat. There is sure to be another sucker out there with the same problem, I hope this helps. remon165

If I am so clever how come it took me 24 hours to realise that the flexi milling shaft mod., I have sent you will also get round one of my pet hates of the power drive, the spring connection. I have just measured an axial movement of 0.125" on my lathe. remon168

Here is a picture of my original solution to this problem - a bit of work, now residing in my scrap box. remon166

So all I did this time was turn a piece of delrin down to 16mm od and a length of 2.2", a 1/4" diam., 1/2" hole at the input end. The other end finished up at 6.9mm diam., by 5/8" deep to accept the spring end of the power drive.  Drill and tap for lock screws. Two pairs of opposed slots were found to give enough flexibility and with no measured end float apart from 0.001" on the gearbox output shaft. remon167

A while ago I saw a video on YouTube of manufacturing "smooth twist" barrels and as usual I fortified myself with a cup of tea and pondered. I came up with a simple jig that could swap between different twist rates and also progressive twist. The initial results showed promise as can be seen from the over cooked sample in the picture. remon170

Working with thin tubing showed I needed a travelling rest and a method of mounting the same, so a long overdue attachment was born, using my new mill. I built up a bridge T slot and mounted it on the carriage, with clearance for a hex key to make adjustments. I used two 4mm screws with the heads turned down to 5mm to slip in the T slot for fixing.  remon171remon172

design for a rest came to mind but I did a quick mod., job to the Taig fixed rest and bolted it to the rear face of my T slot (I shimmed it 0.010" over the bed for location). remon173remon174

Picture is not work in progress but just a set up