“This is an independent power feed I came up with for my Taig lathe. It uses a simple motor plate to attach 540 sized (RC car sized) motor to the backside of the lathe to run the feed independently of the spindle. This allows use of all 6 spindle speeds, and 3 variable forward/reverse speeds on the feed. The motor forward/reverse variable speed is provided via a modified tattoo gun power supply (thought I recommend use of a regular power supply for simple reasons of quality and Amp handling). “
Friday, September 20, 2013
”Side view of the bearing, 95 pound magnet used to attach to base. Duct tape has been replaced by a neater job with electrical tape. Working on a way to index angles by making a scale on tape or adhesive to mark graduation. Also looking into ways to index square to bed more easily. Rotates smoothly, and remains in one plane.”
“I enjoy reading tips and ideas from a variety of forums and web sites. I have learned there are many, many tricks of the trade and many different ways to do things. David Lemereis' YouTube called “Easy Centering the 4 Jaw Chuck” presents an interesting and simple approach to centering stock in a 4 jaw chuck. It may be common to many but it caught my eye. He uses a toolpost mounted dial indicator and two chuck keys to center a piece of stock, square or round, in the 4 jaw chuck quickly and easily.
I only needed a way to mount my dial indicator in a Taig toolpost. It may be obvious to experienced machinists. For the beginner or tinkerers like me, here's how I did it.
I cut off a 2 1/2” length of 1/2” square 6061 aluminum bar. I faced both ends and milled a slot along one edge 1” long to fit the toolpost slot. Mounting the piece in a toolpost on the cross slide of the lathe, I drilled a 3/8” hole to match the shaft of my dial indicator (Center-drill; drill with a 3/16” bit; drill with a 23/64” bit; and finish with a 3/32” chucking reamer). Drill the clamping screw hole with a No. 20 bit. Tap 10-32.
Find the center of the end of the DI mount. Use a slitting saw to cut a narrow slot into the 3/8” hole you drilled. Open one side of the 10-32 threaded hole with a 3/16” bit. I used a single edge razor blade in the slot to act as a drill stop. A 1/2” length 10-32 socket head bolt finishes the part..
None of the measurements I used are critical. I made it as short as I dared (2 1/2”) to clear the chuck jaws with small pieces. The shaft of my dial indicator is a convenient 3/8” in diameter. Measure yours. You can cut the slot with a razor saw or piercing saw, or even a hacksaw if you like. I have learned that laying out and marking up your measurements with a scriber or even a felt tip pen saves time, makes your work more accurate and saves on raw stock. I only made this one three times. I am getting better.”
Wednesday, March 20, 2013
"Just thought that I would share the mods that I have done to my lathe after fitting the retro power feed kit. The spring drive idea simply didn’t work for me so I fitted a universal joint, I could only find a short one in the UK so had to make a small extension piece for it. I then decide that I would prefer the tail stock end of the leadscrew to be supported so made up a block that holds a brass bushing and drilled the end of the leadscrew to take a steel dowel. It all works a treat and I only have to slide the bearing block out of the dovetail in order to remove the carriage.
Oh and almost forgot. I made a hand wheel lock but I should have drilled the holes in the hand wheel closer together. But it works. I might order or make a new hand wheel and drill holes closer together one day."