Friday, March 14, 2014

Flint Spatula (Turner) Rivets

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I had a spatula that separated due to broken rivets. I love these old style spatulas (turners). I wish I knew where to get new ones made of thin spring steel. I buy them whenever I see them at yard sales.spat02
Some stainless rod turned down for a rivet. spat03
Checking with the spatula blade for fit. spat04
The handle has a larger hole than the blade. spat05
Parting off. I made them a little long, next time I’ll leave them shorter.spat06
Much peening later. It would have been less work if there was less rivet and the holes were the same size.
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This is the brand. I think they were bought out by Ecko. You can buy them on Ebay for $15-$20, less if you’re patient.
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Notice I made a few dings…well a dented spatula is better than no spatula. 

Friday, September 20, 2013

Kyle Liberg’s Power Feed Modification

“This is an independent power feed I came up with for my Taig lathe. It uses a simple motor plate to attach 540 sized (RC car sized) motor to the backside of the lathe to run the feed independently of the spindle. This allows use of all 6 spindle speeds, and 3 variable forward/reverse speeds on the feed. The motor forward/reverse variable speed is provided via a modified tattoo gun power supply (thought I recommend use of a regular power supply for simple reasons of quality and Amp handling). “

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Rick Barnes Rotary Table And Projects

rbarnes01“Top of bearing for the table.”

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”Side view of the bearing, 95 pound magnet used to attach to base.  Duct tape has been replaced by a neater job with electrical tape.  Working on a way to index angles by making a scale on tape or adhesive to mark graduation.  Also looking into ways to index square to bed more easily.  Rotates smoothly, and remains in one plane.”

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“Table in place with Dremel in milling position. “

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“Precision vice I am working on.”

Rick Kernell’s Tonearm

“I wanted to send photos of the second version of my tonearm design. As I told Dean, it is amazing how many "jigs" that you have to make to make parts! I have to say that I owe a great part of the credit to you and Dean. Thank you.”

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Bill Marvel’s Toolpost Mount for Dial Indicator

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“I enjoy reading tips and ideas from a variety of forums and web sites.  I have learned there are many, many tricks of the trade and many different ways to do things.  David Lemereis' YouTube called “Easy Centering the 4 Jaw Chuck” presents an interesting and simple approach to centering stock in a 4 jaw chuck.  It may be common to many but it caught my eye.  He uses a toolpost mounted dial indicator and two chuck keys to center a piece of stock, square or round, in the 4 jaw chuck quickly and easily.

I only needed a way to mount my dial indicator in a Taig toolpost.  It may be obvious to experienced machinists.  For the beginner or tinkerers like me, here's how I did it.

I cut off a 2 1/2” length of 1/2” square 6061 aluminum bar.  I faced both ends and milled a slot along one edge  1” long to fit the toolpost slot.  Mounting the piece in a toolpost on the cross slide of the lathe, I drilled a 3/8” hole to match the shaft of my dial indicator (Center-drill; drill with a 3/16” bit; drill with  a 23/64” bit; and finish with a 3/32” chucking reamer).  Drill the clamping screw hole with a No. 20 bit.  Tap 10-32.

Find the center of the end of the DI mount.  Use a slitting saw to cut a narrow slot into the 3/8” hole you drilled.  Open one side of the 10-32 threaded hole with a 3/16” bit.  I used a single edge razor blade in the slot to act as a drill stop.  A 1/2” length 10-32 socket head bolt finishes the part..

None of the measurements I used are critical.  I made it as short as I dared (2 1/2”) to clear the chuck jaws with small pieces.  The shaft of my dial indicator is a convenient 3/8” in diameter.   Measure yours.  You can cut the slot with a razor saw or piercing saw, or even a hacksaw if you like.  I have learned that laying out and marking up your measurements with a scriber or even a felt tip pen saves time, makes your work more accurate and saves on raw stock.  I only made this one three times.  I am getting better.”

Bill Marvel

Ben Bergervoet’s Taig Lathe

Ben is from Belgium.

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Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Ron Kiely’s Taig Powerfeed Universal Joint Modification and Lock.

"Just thought that I would share the mods that I have done to my lathe after fitting the retro power feed kit. The spring drive idea simply didn’t work for me so I fitted a universal joint, I could only find a short one in the UK so had to make a small extension piece for it. I then decide that I would prefer the tail stock end of the leadscrew to be supported so made up a block that holds a brass bushing and drilled the end of the leadscrew to take a steel dowel. It all works a treat and I only have to slide the bearing block out of the dovetail in order to remove the carriage.
Oh and almost forgot. I made a hand wheel lock but I should have drilled the holes in the hand wheel closer together. But it works. I might order or make a new hand wheel and drill holes closer together one day."

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